Uji

By District Mandate all the Secondary Schools in Ngara district must now provide uji (a thin, slightly sweet corn porridge) to students during “tea break” in the late morning. Most students do not eat all day, so this mandate was met (largely) with great happiness on the part of the student body at Ngara Secondary. While parents are required to pay an extra 10,000 shillings (about $6.50 – a lot for the families of many of my students) a semester to cover the cost of the corn, sugar, and labor involved in making the uji, there are great benefits to eating during the day.

The first uji day was a couple of Fridays ago and it was a sight to behold. Around an hour and a half before tea break, a group of mamas (middle aged women with children, mama being a term of respect in Tanzanian culture) began to cook the uji, with one of the female teachers at my school overseeing the process. The preparations had been begun weeks ago, with the purchasing of several very large pots, and a number of large (5 gallon?) buckets. The day before, many of these buckets were used by students to carry the extra water required for uji.

On uji day all the students showed up with plastic cups, some small and some large. At the bell for tea break, students began to mill out of their classrooms with their cups, many doing what I can only assume were uji dances. The excitement was palpable. In our large hall, the students lined up by form, jostling against one another. Then, the uji began to come. One unlucky student began to carry these nearly full buckets into the hall, and then the prefects began to serve the student body. Four lines quickly became eight, and fifteen minutes passed as 500 students were served uji. Depnding on the size of the students’ cup, they got between 8-14 ounces. An unlucky group of 100 more students had yet to be served, as all the uji had not yet been completed. 15 minutes passed, and the ugi began to flow again.

A group of students who had already finished their first serving asked if they could have another, in a line vaguely reminiscent of a Swahili translation of Oliver Twist. Given that this was the first day, their request was granted, and two new lines began to form, and quickly grow. Here things grew serious. The students knew that they would not all get a second serving, so they began to cut, pushing and shoving until teachers had to intervene. Still, the pushing continued, and I had to create a physical barrier between the students who had not gotten their uji, and the students who had come back for seconds. When all the students had received a serving of uji the barrier was withdrawn, and it was every man for himself. If you read my post about lines in Tanzania you will understand. Around 75 students surged forward, crowding madly agains the two remaining uji servers, holding out their cups. Alas, the uji was nearly gone, and only a lucky ten students received a second portion. 45 minutes later, the first uji service at Ngara Secondary was finished. The only casualties were my shoes and pants, splattered with uji during the confusion of the mad rush.

Uji service takes only a half hour now, and the students are noticeably more energized in periods after tea break. Not bad, not bad at all.

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Teaching High School

In Tanzania it’s easy to forget that you are teaching the equivalent of High School students. While I haven’t spent much time around teenagers in High School since I was a teenager in High School, I have clear recollections about what most High School students were like. Largely, what I remember is a lot of boisterous and immature behavior. I think teenagers are mostly the same everywhere, but the combination of the language barrier and the exacting behavioral standards demanded by Tanzanian teachers makes it a lot easier for me to forget that my students are – at heart – boisterous and immature teenagers.

This is especially easy to forget in my good classes, especially among the Form I students who are new to Secondary School. I enter class to all my students standing up, and rousing greeting of “Good morning, sir!” even if it is the afternoon (largely they have been cured of this habit, but sometimes there is a relapse, as most of my classes start in the morning). When I ask them how they are, they respond “We are fine, sir!” Then, I must tell them to sit down before they will sit down. Some of my classes have their disruptive elements at the beginning, but typically if I make an example of somebody (even just having them sit up front or switch seats) the class will be quiet for the rest of the period, and even then most days go by without me needing to do anything disciplinary.

Unlike the United States, teachers move from classroom to classroom to teach the students that stay in the classroom all day. Sometimes these classes get loud when they are not being taught (sometimes a class will go a whole day without having a class), but most of the time students will sit quietly – completely unsupervised – doing work, or quietly talking to each other. I don’t think this would ever happen in the States. When a class does get really loud, it is taken very seriously by teachers and they are punished. Students are expected to clean the school grounds every morning for 15 minutes, and largely they do this far more effectively than a group of American students tasked with cleaning their school campus would do so (though there is a lot of hanging around talking).

In a sense, this behavior is fear-driven as students do not want to get hit, but fear of being hit cannot drive an entire class of students to study quietly for hours with no supervision at all. Of course, this is not always the case, and classrooms get loud, which is not entirely unexpected, but you can see how this good behavior would lead me to forget that many of my students are the boisterous and immature teenagers that I mentioned earlier.

I see hints of this behavior all the time in the way some students talk to each other, though I often cannot understand what they are saying. I see it in the way they respond to the embarrassment of their fellow students (laughing), and in the way they crowd and push around when interesting happens (the discipling of other students, for example). But where it became most obvious to me recently was a welcoming celebration for the new form ones, which was really more like a Tanzanian-style assembly. So many things about this assembly brought me back to high school, from the ridiculous skits and crazy dancing, which pushed the envelope on what was acceptable, to the reactions from the students, the catcalls, shouting, and cheering. Over the course of this assembly I realized that Tanzanian students may be unique in some ways, but in the end not a lot makes them that different from their American counterparts. Their is a wide gulf of social difference, and different kinds of experiences that separates the groups, but given the right conditions my students here wouldn’t have too much trouble identifying the experience of adolescence that ties them to other students in America, and to students across the globe.

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Illness

I have been lucky enough in Tanzania – so far (knock on wood!) to avoid any serious illness or injury. A few scrapes, and a couple of the most minor colds I have ever had totaled the extent of me feeling physically bad, until last Friday. Dealing with my most serious physical ailment here proved every bit as challenging as I suspected it would be, but it also shed some light on the generosity and caring on my Tanzanian friends.

Anyway, some background: I have a recurring knee injury that I aggravate from time to time when I spend too much time crouched, or when I am cramped in a vehicle. When it’s aggravated, I feel a shooting pain above my knee, that I think is some kind of tendonitis, but it never lasts that long, and if I am able to extend my leg it quickly goes away. Last Friday I spent some time crouched working on my bike, and then biking to school I noticed a bit of pain. Tanzanian bikes are far to small for me, and I think biking aggravates my knee when it is already not feeling great. I noticed a bit of pain while I was at school, but it was normal in the sense that it went away when I moved my leg into a better position. I had a few beers at school (I know how weird that sounds – more on that another day – we had a celebration), and I biked home feeling fine. I went to bed early, and woke up at about 10pm in really awful pain. No matter what I did with my leg, my knee felt really bad. I could hardly put weight on it, and moving it was even worse.

My thoughts quickly went to panic mode. Is it serious? Am I going to have to get medical help? Will I have to go to Kigali? Or Nairobi? Or back home? Can I afford that? What does this mean for the rest of my term of service, and my spring break plans? Will I be able to bike to school? How will I get to school? How will I do anything if I can’t walk? Of course, in this panic mode I completely forgot that I could take ibuprofen, which probably would have helped a lot. Instead, I called my mom around 2 am. No answer, so I went back to bed and proceeded not to sleep at all until about 5 am, when the pain started to diminish a bit in one position. I had managed not to completely freak out, but I was definitely not in the best of mental states. Later that morning I talked with my mom who is a great resource on physical ailments, and she suggested some treatment, including icing. Of course, my first reaction was to say, “there is no ice in Ngara, I don’t know how I am going to get ice.”

But, I asked a friend who had already planned on coming over to see what he could get. So, he brought popsicles (and hung out for a couple hours), and then my neighbor generously plugged in her mini-fridge, and I was able to reapply popsicles all day long. The average Tanzanian knows almost nothing about the body, so I got a lot of concerned looks when I said I didn’t think I needed to go to the hospital (as many Tanzanians go to the hospital and get medicine they don’t need all the time). As the day went on I regained my ability to stand without pain, and by the time I went to sleep felt much better, and was greatly reassured that my injury was just a particularly severe reoccurrence of the pain I sometimes feel in my knee. My roommate, and the girls from Muyenzi (who were in town for the weekend) took care of me, and told me not to stand up when I stood up.

The next day another friend visited with a gift basket from his family that included over $2 worth of produce, which is pretty significant for a Tanzanian family. He also sat with me for a few hours. Everyone who learned of my injury expressed such sincere worry, and wanted to be present to keep me entertained. It reminded me of the time my neighbor, the District Education Officer (kind of like a Superintendent, except he is in charge of 20+ schools), seriously burned his foot. He had a stream of visitors bringing gifts (and providing company) for over two weeks when he was unable to leave the house. Tanzanians take injury very seriously (probably as a result of a lack of medical knowledge, and the fact that an injury here is a lot more serious – or at least harder to treat – here than in the states), and the already extremely social nature of Tanzanians is greatly intensified when someone is injured (or, as Tanzanians say, “sick”).

I guess the moral of the story is that if I do end up sick (with the flu, a bad cold, or some unfortunate tropical illness – knock on wood, again), I am confident that people will be here to take care of me. That’s a good feeling, though I am still am not looking forward to having to deal with Tanzanian hospitals, or the discomfort of actually being sick

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Learning and Teaching Language

I have never felt that talented when it comes to learning language. I took Spanish in Middle School, and then in High School for a year and a half, before I switched to Latin which I took for two years. I never progressed beyond a point of feeling like a beginner, and I always struggled to memorize vocabulary. I have no problem remembering all kinds of random things in English, but when it comes to words in foreign languages I struggle. So, it is interesting to not only be working on learning more Swahili, but also trying to teach English to students who have an even more limited English vocabulary than my Swahili vocabulary.

This semester I have begun teaching Form I English (the rough equivalent of High School freshman). While they all technically took English as a subject class in primary school, most of them had English teachers that did not actually teach them any English. So, most of my Form I students have come into Secondary School (where English is the medium of instruction) with next to no English knowledge. To make up for the extremely poor or non-existent English classes that the students were supposed to take in Primary school, these Form I students begin with a six week “Baseline” crash course in Swahili. I am teaching this course.

I was really excited to teach this course, because I thought that it would give me an opportunity to teach students at an appropriate level. Many of my students last quarter in Form II, III, and IV, had such a limited knowledge of English (as a result of limited and, or, poor instruction) that they really needed to be working on the basics, even though the syllabus called for more advanced instruction. So, I thought that starting at the beginning would be a fantastic way to help these students get ahead of the game, and enable them to be successful in a school system where every exam they take (save the Swahili subject) will be in English.

I came into it expecting it to be difficult, but I didn’t anticipate just how difficult. In school, despite my struggles learning vocabulary, I was always able to muddle through grammar, and when I had all the information in front of me I could complete most assignments easily enough. That is not true for most of my students here. Many of them have never been taught how to learn, so it is a struggle teaching anything beyond the basic question and response. While I am slowly making progress, it is an uphill battle, and every day I am reminded how hard it was for me to learn Spanish in High School, and how it must be even harder for my students to learn English.

Even living in a Swahili speaking country I am struggling to continue to develop my Swahili vocabulary. Though I don’t have the benefit of a fantastic teacher to help me along the way (if I can permit myself a bit of self-flattery), most of my interactions outside of school take place in Swahili. My survival Swahili is fantastic, but bridging the gap between my functional Swahili, and being genuinely conversational is truly difficult, especially when I spend a large portion of every day speaking English in school. In the end, it’s a vocabulary problem, not all that dissimilar from the ones that my Tanzanian students are dealing with. In fact, when I consider the English ability of some of my more advanced Form IV students, I cannot help but to be amazed, for they almost never have the opportunity to speak in English, and much of their “English only instruction” is in Swahili, yet they are able to carry on a conversation with me that I am nowhere being able to carry out with them in Swahili.

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Reflections on my first semester and some thoughts for prospective volunteers

As my second semester of teaching begins, I thought I would take a few minutes to reflect on teaching and my life in Tanzania over the course of the first semester, specifically with an eye for people who are considering applying and teaching for WorldTeach Tanzania over the course of the next program year. I have already received a couple questions over email, and I know that around this time last year, as I was beginning to explore my plans for the following year, I spent a lot of time pouring over the blogs of people doing Teach for America, the Peace Corps, and WorldTeach. What follows are some thoughts about teaching in Tanzanian Secondary Schools.

1) Teaching in a Tanzanian Secondary School can be a very rewarding experience, but the worst thing you can do is come in with high expectations. The best thing about my experience so far has been making connections with my students. The reality of Tanzanian Secondary School education is that most of the students will not move on to advanced studies, or go to university. A year spent teaching English, Science, or Math will help a select few students, who by some accident, or incredible dedication, were already on a path to success. However, the vast majority of students simply do not know enough to pass their exams. These students either do not care about school, find it too difficult, or the circumstances of their life make success at school next to impossible. You may not be able to help these students much academically, but you are positioned to make a positive impact on their life by being an adult human they can talk with, ask questions of, and learn about the greater world from. This is a powerful contribution in a globalized world where many Tanzanians have no knowledge of what life outside of Tanzania is actually like.

2) Your ability to teach and make connections will be circumscribed by the Tanzanian school system, and Tanzanian society. The school system is full of problems, and it is a rare day when I can leave school and not have a single complaint about something that (to my mind) was silly and detrimental to the learning environment of my students. Something that many volunteers have specific issues with is corporal punishment, which is pervasive in Tanzanian schools. There is nothing that one volunteer can do to change this, and frequently I must remind myself that I am not only living in a different society with different values, but also that I can only do so much. I can provide an example of a different way to do things, but advocacy too far outside of the mold of what Tanzanians are used to is simply not effective, because your views will be discounted: “This American, he just does not understand how or why we do things here.”

3) It is essential that you find things you enjoy doing outside of school. School will not take over 40 hours a week of your time, so you must be able to entertain yourself outside of school. You may not have electricity or running water, so you should not rely on either of these amenities as a source of entertainment (though I am not sure that many people consider long showers a source of entertainment). I spend most of my time outside of school reading, cooking, and playing sports (in that order). These are all things that I enjoy, so I am mostly pretty happy and not bored, but without these things I would probably hate Tanzania. I am so thankful that I have an e-reader that I loaded with hundreds of books, because I don’t think a single week has gone by where I have not read at least two books. I also don’t know what I’d do if I didn’t like cooking, because cooking is non-negotiable here. You have to do it, and probably, you have to do it on charcoal stoves. You need to get inventive with your ingredients, and you have to like the idea of eating a lot of beans. Thankfully, cooking is something I enjoy very much, and is a very relaxing activity for me. Finally, playing sports (in Ngara, volleyball, football, and basketball) is an opportunity for me to get out into the community, and have fun running around. I have taught many people in Ngara to play Ultimate, and have had some friends send discs, so I have been teaching my students to play. This has been a great success so far.

4) Learning Swahili is one of the most important things you can do here. It will make your interactions with fellow teachers, and the general community, so much more interesting and engaging. I know enough to get around effectively, but I can’t hold a conversation of any substance, and this means that I will always be an outsider here (even if I knew well Swahili I would be an outsider, but at least I’d understand what people are saying). While English is technically the language of instruction in Secondary School, everyone speaks Swahili, and being able to use Swahili (even in my limited sense) integrates me into the community and shows the teachers that I am serious about living and working in Tanzania.

5) Making friends can be difficult, or easy, depending on your placement, but it is essential that you make at least a couple good friends. Most of the teachers at my school are older than me, and don’t seem very interested in being friends outside of school (though they are, by in large, very friendly). Most of the people in your community will not know much English, so if you don’t know Swahili becoming friendly with people in the community can also be difficult. I was lucky enough to meet a teacher from a nearby school who speaks excellent English, and he has been an invaluable resource and fantastic friend. Some other friends have been made from former students, who I was lucky enough to teach for a short time before their graduation, and they too have been fantastic. Life without no local friends would be rough.

If I had to choose whether to do WorldTeach Tanzania over again, knowing what I know now, would I? Absolutely, because I have had an overall fantastic experience so far, but it is certainly an experience that not everyone can handle. I hope these reflections and advice have shed some light on my experience. If you are considering WorldTeach Tanzania next year, please feel free to shoot me an email and pick my brain. While a lot of the recruitment materials are useful and informative, I don’t know how well they capture what the experience is really like, or, at least, are so extensive that it’s easy to get bogged down in the details.

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Being a tourist

After spending three months in Ngara, a place I now think of as home, it was odd to again feel like a tourist. Of course, I not only felt like a tourist, but in every sense of the word was a tourist. While I am acquainted with Tanzanian culture and the Swahili language, when I travel in Tanzania I am treated by people as they would treat any other tourist. This was especially clear on the island of Zanzibar, where I began my trip.

Zanzibar is a popular tourist destination for many Europeans. You might think of it as Europe’s Mexico, though the island is almost 100% Muslim, and nearly all the people who work in resort-type places come from the mainland, or from neighboring Kenya. The Muslims on the island are used to tourists, and many of them make a living from tourism by selling things, driving people around, and offering tours, among other things. As a result, it is nearly impossible to go anywhere without feeling like a tourist.

Indeed, it is impossible to walk down a street in Stonetown, the main city on the island, without hearing “Jambo,” the greeting that islanders give foreigners who they assume speak no Swahili. Jambo is not proper Swahili, but over the years it has developed into this common greeting, to which tourists are told to respond Jambo. Easy, right? This word has become so used that I noticed Zanzibaris actually greeting and responding to each other in such a way, despite that the fact that in non-slang Swahili, the greeting should be “Hujambo,” which is then replied to with “Sijambo.” This means literally, “Are there problems/matters with you?” Then, the response means, “There are no problems/matters with me.” As someone who speaks a little Swahili, I nearly always responded with “Sijambo,” which occasionally led to a string of Swahili greetings, but more often than not led to the greeter in question offering to sell me something. And in some cases, my response of “sijambo” actually made no sense, because the men trying to sell me things were actually beginning to croon a refrain from the popular tourist song “Jambo, jambo bwana,” in an attempt to sell the CD that I presume the song is on, and were not actually greeting me at all.

There is some arrogance in what you may think I am suggesting: that I am somehow not a tourist. In actuality, I am very much a tourist, but my experiences as a tourist are very much shaped by my experiences as a resident of Ngara, and the knowledge I have accumulated as a participant in and observer of Tanzanian culture. I feel like less of a tourist, despite the fact that in almost every way I am behaving like one, going to tourist bars and restaurants, hanging out at the beach, and spending far more money in a day than most of the people I am interacting with can imagine spending on themselves over the course of a month. Even when I eat at local places, and I am still very much a tourist. Maybe well off Tanzanians can afford to spend a $1 on breakfast every day, but to most Tanzanians that is a luxury they cannot afford. To some, eating breakfast at all is out of the question, while I can go to a tourist restaurant for breakfast and spend $10 almost without thinking about it. The staff of these restaurants – as people lucky enough to have a steady job in the tourism industry – presumably can afford to eat breakfast, but certainly they could never afford to actually have a meal at the place they are working,

Because of this I have very mixed feelings about being a tourist. Yes, my “tourist activities” are helping people make a living, but my own standard of living is so far beyond the standard of living of these people that I can drop what to them is unimaginable amounts of money on things that are entirely non-essential. In reality, this is not just my mixed feelings about being a tourist, but actually my mixed feelings about being someone of privilege: by the accident of my birth, and the country from which I am from, I am able to spend comparatively large amounts of money without thinking twice about it, while the people who handle the money are handling amounts that would make a tremendous difference in their life, and the lives of the people who live around them. I can, and do, tell myself that giving people money won’t solve any of the structural problems that create global inequity, but that doesn’t stop me from feeling guilty.

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The Rwandan Genocide Memorial

While I made a short visit to Rwanda last semester, it was so short that we didn’t have the time to do anything “cultural.” My latest visit was a little longer, and as a result I had the time to visit the official genocide memorial in Kigali. There are a number of memorials situated across the country, comparable perhaps to the way in which concentration camps have been memorialized across Germany. In Rwanda, these sites include large burial grounds, places of resistance, and places where mass killings took place. However, there is still a central memorial site which is situated to provide knowledge of the historical context, much like the major Holocaust museums that are situated in many places throughout the world.

The site is very interesting, especially as I thought about in contrast to my experience at the Holocaust museum in Israel. It does not have much of the majesty of that site, or of memorial sites in America, and there were areas that were not operational while we were there. This makes a lot sense when you consider that it was created on a far more limited budget, and so recently following the genocide. Despite this, some parts of the memorial are extremely powerful.

In particular, there was a circular room with over 2,000 photographs of genocide victims hanging on the wall. These photos were paired with some video of survivors speaking about the last moments they shared with loved ones. Watching these people get choked up as they remembered these moments of extreme pain was heartbreaking. The next room contained skulls and bones of unidentified victims. This was especially intense, and helped to capture the magnitude of the genocide. Most victims have never been identified, largely because of not only the scale of the atrocities, but also because so many whole families were killed. As a result, there are mass graves across the country, including some at the memorial. These mass graves are covered with giant concrete slabs that seem a little odd to my sensibilities, but, again, are very practical.

Most surprising to me was how few Rwandans I saw visiting the memorial. Most of the people visiting were white tourists. The genocide is such a recent chapter in Rwandan history that I think many Rwandans find it very painful to talk and think about. Indeed, as a result it is not considered polite to ask questions about the genocide. From what I understand, the Rwandan government has also discouraged discussion of the topic for fear of the divisive potential it represents. This is unfortunate, because being in Rwanda one cannot be help to be curious.

Many people have odd scars on their heads or other physical disfigurements that I cannot help but think are a result of the genocide. People my age were children during the genocide, but I am sure many of them have vivid and traumatic memories of the experience. And people older than I lived through it, experiencing intimately many of the things I have only read about. The language barrier would make conversing with most of these people very difficult (most Rwandans only speak Rwandese well), but it would be so fascinating to be able to ask people about what their experience was like. Instead, I must rely on the videos I have watched prior to coming here, and on the testimony that was presented at the memorial. This is not altogether a bad thing, but I can’t help but wish to hear some of this testimony firsthand.

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Lines

In most circumstances Tanzanians refuse to form proper lines (or queues if you want to be British about it) , Americans form lines at just about every opportunity, and in some rare circumstances Tanzanians are induced into making lines, but not without some consternation. This phenomenon is evident in many different areas of Tanzanian life, and it is something I have observed with some interest over the course of my time here, but nowhere was is clearer than trying to board a ferry on Zanzibar back to mainland Tanzania last week. But if you want to hear that story, you’ll have to scroll down past the rest of this post first.

My experience teaching may give this observation on lines some clarity. Whenever Tanzanian students need an official piece of paper signed by teachers they swarm them. That is simply the only way to describe it. To graduate, all Form IV students needed to get their teachers to certify, by signing a piece of paper, that they did not have any school materials in their possession. So, about 190 students needed a signature from almost all the 12 teachers at my school. On the day the students got their signature sheets, a swarm of students followed the teachers wherever they went. Some forced the students to make a line, or to compile all their papers into a stack, but many just sat and signed as students shoved papers in their face. This experience was repeated after exams, when students either wanted a question checked or had worries about the quality of the math that led to their final grade. At first, I refused to look at anything until my students formed a line, so about 6 students formed a line and I began to go over their finals one by one. Then, the swarm began again. So, I stopped, and requested a line. This happened at least 6 times over the course of half an hour.

There is also no such thing as a line for a daladala (public transport). People wait at the stop, and when a bus arrives they run and push to get on. If you are not aggressive enough, you simply will never catch a bus during any time when other people want to catch a bus. In Dar, during training, I actually had to stand next to the door blocking Tanzanians from entering the bus after some of my fellow volunteers proved too reticent to push their own way on the first few buses that passed us. And of course, the same applies when leaving the bus. Unless you want to wait until everyone has gotten out, you need to push your way into the crowd of people rushing off the bus. The ironic thing is that once they get off the bus Tanzanians prove to be – largely – very slow walkers.

Why I am thinking about this all of sudden? My experience last week trying to board a ferry last week made me realize actually how insane this lack of lines can be. A couple of volunteers and I arrived to catch to ferry only to find the waiting area extremely full. We walked towards where the boarding would begin, set down our bags, and began to wait. All of a sudden people began to get up and crowd toward the place where a line would normally begin. In an instant we were left with no room to move or breath. We looked around trying to determine if a ferry had arrived, or what was causing this mass of people to shove past us, and saw the ferry far off in the distance. We had started directly by where a line would have begun, but by the time people stopped moving we were at least 10 feet away from this point, and an area that had been roped off because a worker was doing dangerous looking work with a torch was now full of people with the rope nowhere to be seen. We stood like this for 30 minutes, as a couple of the ferry workers yelled at people some instructions we did not completely understand.

Eventually this horde split into two, and we realized that the earlier ferry had not run due to some mechanical problem. This previous group would board the ferry that was now letting people off, and we would board another ferry about two hours later. Still, my group remained standing, and pushing against the area where boarding happened. The other group looked it might stampede the ferry, and as it began to board people were literally getting pushed through the area where tickets were checked. This ferry was eventually boarded, and realizing that they were definitely not going to get on, some of my group moved away to go have a seat, but a number of them remained standing directly next to the gate. About two hours later the ferry arrived, and the same process began again. People rushed to the gate, and it seemed like people would be trampled. Eventually we pushed, and were pushed, through this mass of people and began to walk down toward the board. There a line to enter the board had formed. Very surprised, we got in this line. Instantly, people began to cut in from the sides, where ferry employees, two per person, began to pull these people out a line. Eventually we got on board. Did I mention that a ferry ticket means that you are guaranteed a seat?

Later that week we took a local ferry (a short five minute ride) to South Dar, and buying a ticket involves the same process. There is one person selling tickets, and about 15 more holding their money into the window trying to buy a ticket. Boarding this ferry – during rush hour – is a similar experience. People push and shove trying to get past the gate, and then discover there is plenty of space on the ferry.

People die in Black Friday store rushes in America, and I have to assume that people get trampled here trying to board transportation, even when there is plenty of space. Why is this? I have no idea at all. Sorry if you were hoping for some brilliant cultural insight. However, I can say that lines would not only make boarding vessels a faster process, but would be far more fair.

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Personal Space

One of the things you quickly realize in Tanzania is that Tanzanians have a different idea of personal space than Americans. Nowhere is this more readily apparent than on public transportation. Americans in major metropolitan areas crowd onto public transportation during rush hours, but Tanzanians will crowd regardless of the time, in in ways that would make many Americans blush.

The local transport in Ngara district from town to town takes the form of “taxis” or Toyota hatchbacks with (officially 5 seats). These cars rarely drive from destination to destination without at least 10 passengers, and more frequently are completely packed with 14. People sit in the trunk, on peoples laps, and squeezed onto the same seats as their neighbors. There is all kinds of touching that would freak many Americans out.

Generally, bus travel from city to city is not as bad. There are assigned seats, and every person is assigned one. These seats are far from comfortable, but they are acceptable for long journeys, and you have at least a little bit of personal space. However, as these busses travel from major city to major city, if they pass through smaller towns, they often pick up passengers. These passengers can buy tickets in advance, but they are not guaranteed seats if the bus is full. Ngara is one of these small towns, and if I want to travel directly to Dar es Salaam I need to get on the bus coming from Burundi. I have taken this bus before, but not until last week was I unlucky enough not to get a seat.

I got on the bus to find it completely packed. There was hardly enough room for all the passengers to stand, so of course I was standing. Being tall, I couldn’t stand up straight without my head going through the roof. And, of course, I was in the “personal space” of a number of other people. Only 30 minutes after getting on board, the bus was stopped in Ngara by the police, who said the bus was overfilled, and charged the operators for the number of standing passengers (20). This process took nearly an hour, as I (guess what) stood on the bus. When the bus began to move again, it became clear that I was going to have to figure out how to sit down somewhere. A number of passengers in the back had buckets they were sitting on, but there were no more buckets, so I sat on top of a bag of clothes another volunteer had brought for her trip. I was squeezed in the aisle by the legs of two sitting women, and the man sitting behind me. One of the other volunteers turned to face me, and our legs intertwined in next to no space.

I spent all but the final 3 hours of my journey (which took 30 hours in total, excepting the 4 hours we stopped in the middle of the night because of “road insecurity” – when I sat outside on the curb in the middle of the night) sitting in random positions on the floor, leaning on and being pushed by many different enormous Zanzibari women. I slept for about 30 minutes against a fat roll of the women who insisted on taking up about about a quarter of my aisle space. I have never been so physically close to so many married Muslim women in my life. At one point, towards the end of my journey, and after I had a bucket to sit on, one of the women sitting behind me stood up to have a conversation with her friends who were sitting beside and in front of me. She proceeded to molest my back by leaning against me and rubbing her fat rolls all over me.

It was in that moment that I understood: Tanzanians don’t have personal space like Americans.

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Records

As an American who grew up in the middle of the development and spread of technology, I cannot remember a time in America when records were not digitalized. While I have lived through a time that has seen many things digitalized (and indeed, things continue to be digitalized), I have very few memories of records that were not digital in format. I remember deciding what classes to take through a computer system, and getting my drivers license through a computer system. While I am sure that when I was young I had experiences with handwritten records, I have no real memories of them, except maybe at doctors offices, seeing charts written out by hand. People my age take these digital records for granted, and I think even older generations have gotten used to the ease of digital record keeping. So, coming to Tanzania I had not given a lot of thought to how school records would be kept. Obviously, since most of Tanzania has only minimal access to computers, and even worse than minimal access to the internet, records would written, but it wasn’t something I thought much about.

After I arrived, I began to realize the extent of the logistical challenges presented by not having digital records, especially in a country as spread out as Tanzania. The District Education Officer for Secondary Schools in Ngara is effectively supervises the running of 26 (or 27?) Secondary School in Ngara District alone. At its widest, I believe this is around 200 kilometers from end to end, and since many of the schools are very rural the dirt and gravel roads going to them are often very poor. Most of these schools do not have electricity, so most of the communication regarding their running happens over the phone. If papers or documents need to be delivered, they are delivered in person, as the mail is notoriously slow. Basically, I can’t even imagine what things were like prior to cell phones. Admittedly, there were less schools at that point, but the logistical challenges seem simply enormous, as land lines did not proceed cell phones in most of Tanzania: there was simply no way to get in touch with people directly, unless you went to see them.

My school is one of the schools in Ngara district (maybe there are 1-2 others) to have electricity, and also some computers. Actually, beginning in January we are supposed to have a computer lab with around 20 computers, but that’s beside the point for now. However, nearly all of our records are kept in paper files. While the computers do have Excel, nobody knows how to effectively keep records using it, and even if they did there is only one computer and since there are no proper administrators or administrative staff, (or program designed for keeping records) it would be impractical to keep the records digitally anyway. So, everything is written for hand.

This may not seem like that big a deal until you consider all the things that schools traditionally keep track of: student attendance, grades, school fees, enrollment, and so on. To effectively keep track of all these things without the aid of a computer system, you would probably need one person working full time, especially in a school as large as Ngara Secondary (about 700-800 students). That person does not exist, so record keeping is very poor. Mostly, student “monitors” keep track of attendance, and enrollment. The school burser (or accountant), who also teaches math (supposedly to every student at school) is in charge of school fees, and teachers mostly take care of grades.
Grades in most Tanzanian school are based entirely on the final exam, because teachers don’t track assignments over the course of the semester. This means that end of the semester a great deal of craziness ensues. Every subject (there are 10!) has a final exam. The teachers mark these exam, and compile lists of the student scores on each exam, organized by the “stream” or class they are in. For instance, I marked about 190 exams for Form III. These students are split into four streams, so for each stream I had to produce a sheet of paper with the scores for all the students.

At Ngara Secondary most teachers are then assigned a stream (about 50 students), and they have the task of creating student report cards. They must enter the final exam score for every subject into this report card, add it to the score from the exam from the first semester, average the score, and then figure out the class rank of each student for each subject based on these exams. And then, for each student, the report card needs to be copied by hand so that the school can have a record of the scores. It is a ridiculously time consuming process, not helped by the fact that there is no rhyme or reason to the order of the lists of exam scores, so one must scan the lists to find the student’s name for every report card that is written. On Friday, over the course of 8 hours, I entered the scores of all 10 subject exams to the report cards of one stream, working at a pace that left my Tanzanian colleagues amazed at my speed (most of them were going half as fast).

This experience simply blew me away. You simply don’t think about the time it takes to keep records on paper, especially when the organization is so bad. I can hardly imagine how the world ran before the advent of computerized record keeping, and I certainly hope there was more in the way of organizational structures.

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